Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Noche Buena

“Twas la Noche Buena when all through the casita,
Everyone was stirring, even la bebita;
The nativity scene was set with care,
Waiting for the moment to put Baby Jesus there;
The jovenes were all out dancing at the discoteca,
While the ninos at home hoped for a new muneca;
And mami in her high heels, and I in my flip flops,
Had just knocked back some anis schnapps;
When out in the street arose such a clatter,
But we didn’t even notice, and ate (fruitcake) til we all got fatter.”
                     -- Amanda Rodgers, Peace Corps Peru 17 Youth Development Volunteer

I just celebrated my first Christmas away from my family, and I actually survived.  The days leading up to Christmas were worse than the day itself.  I was being a regular Grinch and absolutely dreading the holiday.  How could I have a good Christmas if I wasn’t spending it with my family?  I believed it wasn’t possible to enjoy even one minute of the holiday.  But, of course, I was wrong- and boy am I glad I was!
After I snapped out of my Grinch mood on Christmas Eve, I actually started enjoying myself.  It was nothing at ALL like Christmas Eve at the Goering household, but it was still a good time.  At some point that evening my host nieces (ages 7, 9, and 14) and I decided to have a girls’ night before we headed to evening Mass.  I painted their nails and drew all kinds of outrageous designs, they helped me pick out my Christmas Eve outfit, and we helped each other with our hair.  Those simple little tasks were enough to put me in a good mood and help me enjoy the holiday.  After we beautified ourselves, we headed to mass.  It was supposed to start at 7:30pm, so of course it didn’t start until about 8:15pm.  Some of the youth enacted the beloved scene of the birth of Jesus, while younger kids performed a typical Peruvian dance for the entire congregation.  The Padre spoke for a few minutes, Communion was given, everyone raced to the front to touch the baby Jesus, and my host family and I headed home to begin preparing our Noche Buena feast. 
Let me explain to you the Peruvian Christmas tradition.  Each family celebrates in their own unique way, but the basis of the tradition is as follows.  Mass: check.   Then the adults head home to prepare the Noche Buena meal, while the kids convene in the plaza and hang out for an hour or so.  The Buena Noche meal consists of hot chocolate, paneton (Peru’s version of fruitcake), and many times a main dish of turkey.  No matter what the main dish is, there is always hot chocolate and paneton.  After eating dinner, the family stays up until midnight to celebrate the birth of baby Jesus.  At the stroke of midnight everyone drowns one another in hugs and meanders over to the nativity scene to kiss the baby Jesus.  After all the excitement, the family heads to bed.  Christmas day is just like another day to Peruvian families, as they celebrated Christmas the night before.
The scene in my house wasn’t much different than the one described above.  While my nieces and I were waiting for the Torres Palacios women (my host mom and 2 host sisters) to prepare the meal, my younger nieces played barber shop on me.  We camped out in the living room with brushes and tons of hair ties, and my poor head endured the tugs of 4 little hands.  Once dinner was (finally) ready, we gathered around the table and all took our seats.  There wasn’t a lot of talking as we were all shoving the food down our throats.  We had, of course, hot chocolate and paneton, turkey, noodles, and a sort of potato salad.  It wasn’t the Christmas feast that I’m used to, but it was still delicious and satisfying.  After dinner we cranked up the Christmas music and sang along and danced our little hearts out until finally the clock struck midnight.  As soon as that second hand hit the 12, we all jumped up and gave everyone giant, warm hugs.  Each person walked to the nativity scene and gave baby Jesus a kiss on the forehead, and at about 12:07am we headed to bed. 
Christmas day began in much the same way as it does for me in the States.  I woke up incredibly early, not wanting to get out of bed, but at the same time wanting nothing more than to start my day.  I packed my bag and ran over to Kyle’s town.  From there we headed into Piura together to spend the day.  You’d have thought that we were both there alone because as soon as we made it to the hostel we both went our separate ways to Skype our families and friends for the next few hours.  I was fortunate enough to be able to see everyone at the Hanna family Christmas celebration and feel like I was a part of the festivities.  They had me projected up on the big screen tv so everyone could see me, and the camera set up in the corner of the room so I could watch the goings-on.  I just sat and watched the people I love, feeling incredibly thankful for every moment.
After Skyping with my family and Kristen’s family, Kyle and I headed to the apartment of a couple other Volunteers to eat some delicious pancakes and play an assortment of different board/card games.  We played games, drank sangria, laughed, told stories, and generally had a good time.  It was nice to be able to spend the day with other Volunteers to keep my mind off the fact that I was so far away from friends and family.
Although this Christmas was nothing like what I’m used to, I survived and actually had a pretty good time.  I’m thankful for the opportunity to have been able to experience another culture’s interpretation of such a huge holiday, and enjoy myself while doing it!  Here’s wishing you all an exciting and fun New Year’s!  Did I mention that I will be spending NYE on the beaches of Mancora in northern Piura?  Hope you all enjoy the cold and snow while I’m working on my tan ;)  
Love and hugs!

“You can’t find something that’s already there.  Happiness exists now.  It’s not something you have to find.”
                    --illuminatedmind.net

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Feasts, Jam Sessions, and Giant Condoms

Feasting on giant condoms while having a jam session?  :-/ eek.  Better read on for clarification.
Since I skipped writing about Thanksgiving, EIST (Early In-Service Training), and the past couple weeks, I’ll fill you all in on those in this post.
Let’s start with Thanksgiving- my very first Thanksgiving away from my family.  Thanks to the beach and lots of other Volunteers, I survived.  I was able to Skype with most of my family for a while on Thursday, and it was great to hear everyone’s voices.  If I closed my eyes it almost felt as though I was there with them, just listening to the beloved sounds of Family Fest.  I managed to make it through the Skype session without crying, but it left a strange taste in my mouth.  It was weird to be so far away, yet so great to be able to talk to everyone.  I don’t know, I guess I can’t explain how I felt afterwards.  It just reminded me how incredibly lucky I am to be a part of my family.
So, Kelsey, what did you do for Thanksgiving since you weren’t chowin’ down on turkey and pumpkin pie?  Well, let me just tell you.  The Wednesday before Thanksgiving, I headed into Piura with some other Volunteers, where we hung out all day until our 11:45pm overnight bus to Trujillo.  Trujillo is the capital city of the department of La Libertad, located 2 departments south of Piura.  We arrived in Trujillo at 6:00am and headed straight to the hostel where we met about 30 other Volunteers.  You can imagine how the scene played out since most of us hadn’t seen each other in 3 months.  Tears were shed, hugs were given, laughs were laughed, stories were shared, and more hugs were given.  Everyone was so excited to see each other that it helped ease the pain of being away from home on Thanksgiving.  Thursday was spent in Trujillo, doing whatever we wanted.  Some went to the mall, some went on a tourist excursion, some ate all the fast food they could get their hands on, and others just chilled at the hostel all day.  I ran around all day, flitting from group to group, trying to spend as much time with everyone as I could!  The night ended with an obligatory trip to a local club that had never before seen so many gringos in one night.
Friday we checked out of the hostel and headed to a beach town about a 20-minute cab ride away called Huanchaco.  We checked in to another hostel that was incredible.  There was a side for camping, a side for dorms (where we stayed), a restaurant, a kitchen on the camping side, and it was literally right across the street from the beach.  We could walk out the front door of the hostel and be on the beach in less than 30 seconds- amazing.  I laid on the beach with tons of other Volunteers basically all day Friday.  We tried to get in the water but there were so many rocks that it was incredibly painful on our feet, and they were all failed attempts.  Huanchaco is a fairly touristy town so they’re used to seeing tons of gringos everywhere; and not just Americans, but people from all over the world.  I had visited Huanchaco during FBT so I was kind of familiar with the town.  The one thing I remembered most was this brilliant little vegetarian restaurant that had delicious food.  To put into perspective how wonderful the food is, I’ll tell you that I didn’t eat anywhere else the entire time we were in Huanchaco!
Saturday was basically a repeat of Friday until the late afternoon.  Saturday had already been dubbed as our day for unofficial Thanksgiving celebrations.  A group of Volunteers headed into town to buy the supplies for our feast while the rest of us anxiously awaited their return.  When they finally got back to the hostel they were in need of some serious help with all of the preparations.  More than enough people volunteered.  From the moment the food arrived to the moment we finished eating, we took over the hostel.  The staff was kind enough to let us use the kitchen in their restaurant between lunch and dinner, from 4:00-6:00pm, as well as the kitchen on the camping side.  They also provided us with all the equipment we needed to create the feast, from knives, to pots and pans, to cutting boards.  I wish you all could have seen the process of preparing this meal.  We had people washing vegetables in one of the showers; people were cutting vegetables, fruit, and occasionally their fingers at the station on the deck; a group of people peeled and cooked potatoes in the camping kitchen; others prepared green bean casserole, stuffing, and sweet potato casserole in the other kitchen.  As unorganized as it all was, we somehow managed to get everything done.  We may not have been a well-oiled machine, but I was impressed with our efficiency.  After hours of work and anticipation, the feast was finally ready!  The 25 or so of us all gathered around to look at the buffet, and not a single one of us could hide our huge smiles!  After basking in the glory of what lay before us, we all grabbed our plates and proceeded to pile them high with delicious food.  We sat at a long table comprised of all of the night-stands and chairs in all of our rooms and enjoyed our very own Thanksgiving meal.  Looking up and down the table, watching all of my new dear friends eat and enjoy each others’ company, hearing the laughter and conversation that floated along- I felt like I was at home.  It wasn’t the home that I’ve known my entire life, but a new kind of home.  The people that were mere strangers just 5 months earlier were now my family.  We were all in the same situation, missing home and feeling sad, yet we somehow managed to create this amazing feast and enjoy our time together.  We made our own kind of Thanksgiving.  I kept thinking about how lucky I’ve been my entire life to have my friends and family at home, and the luck that I just obtained by meeting this new group of people, this new family.  That was my happiest moment in all of my time in Peru.
We might not have enjoyed the traditional Thanksgiving feast, but I’d say we gave it a run for its money with our spread:
·         6 rotisserie chickens (substituted for the turkey because apparently turkey costs a small fortune in Peru)
·         Roasted veggies of all sorts
·         Loads of bread
·         A giant, cheesy, delicious mac’n’cheese bake
·         Vegan green bean cass
·         Stuffing (this might actually rival Claire’s stuffing, it was that good)
·         Cheesy sweet potato cass (I’ve never liked sweet potato casserole, but this one made me weak in the knees)
·         Tons of fresh salad (that obviously got ignored because of all of the other delicious food)
·         Garlic mashed potatoes
·         Cheesy garlic mashed potatoes
·         Cheesy, garlic, bacon mashed potatoes
·         Fruit salad (beautifully presented in a watermelon shell)
·         Apple crisp (I’m convinced this could win a blue ribbon in any county fair)
·         No-bake cookies (instead of forming them into cookies they were served in a pan as one giant glob of deliciousness)
·         4 kinds of ice cream
·         Fruit punch (made with real fruit juice)
·         Sweet Peruvian wine (that never tastes good, but we had to have it anyway)
If you can’t tell from the list above, we had copious amounts of food.  So much food, in fact, that we had to give it away to the staff at the hostel and any other random groups of people we could find in the hostel.  Everything was so delicious that I never wanted to stop eating, and I felt satisfyingly like I had just eaten a real Thanksgiving feast back in Kansas.
After our feast and clean-up we acted like true Youth Development Volunteers and had a sing-along/jam session.  The guitar, cajon (wooden box with a hole cut out of it- basically a cool drum), different raps and songs were all present at the jam session.  It was a perfect ending to a wonderful Thanksgiving.
The next day, Sunday, all of us Youthies packed up our belongings and headed to Chiclayo in the department of Lambayeque for EIST.  We spent the week in a Volunteer’s site called Olmos, located about 2 hours from Chiclayo.  The week was full of sessions, presentations, and different project ideas that we could all potentially carry out at site.  To me, the most interesting sessions were on youth entrepreneurship and an Escuela de Padres (School for Parents).  Since I am a business major, obviously the youth entrepreneurship idea caught my attention.  My site has a need for this because there are very limited job opportunities for the youth once the graduate high school.  I’m hoping to plan and organize a program in which they can make their own money, and in turn learn about finances, the value of money, and other business opportunities they have.  I’m also incredibly interested in creating an Escuela de Padres in my community.  I could cover a million different topics in this, and I suppose that over the 2 years I might cover almost that many, but my main goal is to try to organize a community bank.  Most Peruvians that live in small sites, and even those that live in the cities, don’t have enough money to send their children to college, and therefore the kids are forced to either stay at home or find a low-paying job.  The idea of a community bank is to create a group of parents for each grade and have them each put 10 soles into this community bank every month.  Once they have enough money, they will be able to give out loans and make money on the interest, therefore creating more profit.   Ideally I’d like the parent groups to start saving when their children are in the 1st grade.  That way, when their child graduates from high school, the parents can go to their community bank, split the money equally, and uses that money to send their kids to college.  This obviously isn’t going to pay for all 4 years at a university, but it will cover at least the first year, and the kids will be able to get a part-time job to help pay for the rest.  I know this project is going to take a lot of planning and work, but I’m very passionate about it and I think it could be one of the most sustainable projects that I could do in my community.  Obviously I still have a lot of work to do before I can even present this plan to my community, but I really hope that it works out!
Since World AIDS Day fell during EIST, we were able to participate in the efforts of the community in which we were staying.  My group created a socio drama for the youth of Olmos, in which we had a giant singing condom that taught the youth about the ABC’s of prevention (A- abstinencia (abstinence) B- brindar fidelidad (be faithful) C-condon (correct use of condoms)).  Zack, one of the most talented people I know, wrote a catchy jingle about the three methods that we sang between each of 3 different scenes in our play.  Each scene depicted one of the ABC’s.  It was a hilarious little socio drama and the kids loved it.  By the end of it they were all singing along with us- it really was a glorious sight.
EIST ended, and after a week-and-a-half out of site, I finally returned to my quaint little town of El Arenal.  It was hard to come back after being gone for so long and having so much “gringo time” with all of my new friends, but I eventually got back into the swing of things.  School ends Friday, December 16th (tomorrow) for the year, so I’ve started planning different things to do over the break.  Hopefully I’ll be working with Kyle and Brielle (my site neighbors) on different projects throughout the upcoming months.  We all have some great ideas, it’s just a matter of getting them going.  Wish us luck!
Well, Christmas is only 10 days away, and I can already tell that it’s going to be a rough holiday for me.  I thought Thanksgiving would be worse, but I think Christmas is going to take the cake.  It’s hard to feel like it’s Christmas when it’s a zillion degrees outside, I have to put sunscreen on to leave my room, and there’s not a real Christmas tree in sight.  I will be celebrating Christmas Eve and Christmas morning with my host family, but then I’m jetting out of here to Piura so I can Skype my family.  Kyle and I are planning on meeting up and drowning our sorrows in as many snacks as we can find.  I’ll head back to site on the 26th, stay for a few days and (hopefully) get things ready for summer vacation, and head out to the beach for New Year’s Eve with a bunch of other Volunteers.  We’re heading to one of the most well-known and beautiful beaches of Piura, located about 3 or 4 hours north of me.  This oasis is called Mancora.  I’ve been lead to believe that it is swarming with gringos around NYE and that a good time will be had by all.  I can hardly wait!  It gives me something to look forward to and keep my mind off of Christmas (at least a little bit).
That’s all I have for now.  I’ll be sure and update you all on Christmas and NYE as soon as they’ve passed.  Thanks for the holiday packages, letters, prayers, and thoughts.  I miss you guys SO incredibly much and think of you every single day.  Love to all of you.

At what other time in your life are you ever going to be exposed to so many different walks of life, so many different people that just randomly cross your path, each with a different story, different set of hopes, different set of dreams...”
                             -- Dawson’s Creek

Saturday, December 10, 2011

SIX MONTHS

Today marks six entire months in Peru.  My how the time has flown.  There were days when I never thought I’d even make it this far, and then there were days when I couldn’t believe how awesome my life was.  I have tons of things to update on (ie: Thanksgiving, EIST, the past couple weeks), but I’m going to dedicate this post to six things I’ve learned in Peru.

1) Spanish is hard.  When I first arrived in Peru, I knew that my Spanish wasn’t amazing.  I knew I was going to have troubles.  But I never thought that the language itself could frustrate me to the point of tears and exhaustion.  There were times when I thought that not a single person could understand a word that I said, and I was probably right.  But here I am, six months later, and I feel completely different.  I’m nowhere near fluent, and I still have daily troubles, but I feel confident enough that I can hold my own in a conversation, and I am constantly surprising myself.  The weird and funny Spanish blunders that I make on a daily basis definitely make things more bearable.  I’ve managed to survive the past six months with my Spanish level, so I know I can do it for another 21.
2) Waiting is just a fact of life in Peru.  As Americans, we are of the state of mind that “time is money and money is time.”  Take that thought and completely disregard it, and you know what it is like to live in Peru.  When I have a meeting at 3:00, I am ALWAYS there at 3:00, sometimes even earlier.  But I’ve learned that a meeting that is supposed to start at 3:00 will most likely start at 3:30 or even 4:00.  It has taken me a long time to accustom myself to la hora peruana, but I’m finally getting used to it.  I’ve learned to never leave my house without a book, my ipod, or something to work on.  I could write an entire blog post about how my butt is forever sore because all I do is sit and wait.
3) Seeing a man pee on the side of the road/watching a mom breastfeed her child in any setting is not at all out of the ordinary.  I remember the first time I saw a woman whip out her breasts in the middle of a busy market- I was absolutely horrified.  Now I can carry on an entire conversation in the exact same scenario without even flinching.  And seeing a guy pee on the side of the road- actually anywhere- doesn’t make me think twice.
4) Dogs aren’t really a man’s best friend.  Muffin, the world’s best dog, definitely spoiled me my entire life.  She was the picture-perfect dog.  Calm yet energetic, fun, playful; everything you could ask for in a pet.  In the United States, pets are part of the family, sometimes even considered an extra kid.  In Peru, dogs are looked at very differently.  They are allowed to roam the streets, are malnourished, and are often times dangerous.  In Training they taught us to pick up a rock and throw it when we were walking around in case a dog tried to attack us.  It’s strange that my love for dogs has diminished right before my eyes.  But hopefully when I get back to the USA my love will resurface.
5) Peru has more to offer than just Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca.  This country is incredibly beautiful and is fullll of awesome things.  From the coast, to the Sierra mountains, to the Amazon rainforest, Peru has something to offer just about any adventure-seeking person.  You want to snorkel and surf?  Come to Peru.  You want to see pink dolphins and meet with a witch doctor in the jungle?  Head to Peru.  You want to hike in the mountains or swim underneath a waterfall?  Come on down to Peru.  You want to check out some ruins or visit an island community?  Peru’s your place.  Peru has it all.  On top of all that, the people (for the most part) are incredibly nice.  Once they realize that you aren’t a tourist and are living in their country, learning their culture, helping their people; they are so warm and welcoming.  This country is an incredible place to visit and an even better place to live.
6) Family and friends are so important.  I’ve always been a very family-oriented person because of the way I was brought up.  I love spending time with my family, and (I hope) they like spending time with me, too.  And obviously my friends mean the world to me.  But since I’ve been in Peru, I’ve realized that life is not worth living without friends and family.  I wouldn’t still be here in Peru, living out my dream, without the constant love and support from back home.  My poor mom- I’ve called her too many times crying about how much I want to be home, and she always has something to say that makes me realize how lucky I am to be here.  The emails, phone calls, skype dates, letters, packages, facebook posts, and every encouraging word from home keeps me grounded and has confirmed that I know the greatest people in the entire world.  I am so lucky.

Peru has changed me; opened my eyes to new things, and broadened my horizons.  I’ve learned a million things about Peru and its people, and a million and one things about myself.  The past six months have made such an impact on my life; I can’t even imagine what the next 21 months have in store for me.

“Over the mountains, across the seas
Who knows what will be waiting for me?”
                             -- “The Gold It’s In The…” Pink Floyd